We advise all new archers not to buy any equipment until they have completed the beginner’s course and obtained the advice of their coach. It is easy to buy the wrong things and waste a lot of money otherwise. Common problems are buying bows that are too powerful for beginners (over-bowing will make it difficult to improve your form), and getting arrows that are not properly matched with the bow.
The following reference material is to be used in conjunction with discussions with your coach.
Bows
Bows can be of several types, such as horse bows, long bows, recurve bare bow, ‘
The size of the bow is governed by the draw length. The general rule is
Bow length is determined by the length of the riser plus the length of the limbs. Different combinations give different lengths. As a rough guide:
Draw length | Bow length | Consisting of |
---|---|---|
< 26″ | 64″ | 23″ riser + short limbs |
26″ – 28″ | 66″ | 23″ riser + medium limbs or 25″ riser + short limbs |
28″ – 30″ | 68″ | 23″ riser + long limbs or 25″ riser + medium limbs |
30″ – 32″ | 70″ | 25″ riser + long limbs |
Some makers also produce 27″ risers, giving those with 32″ draw length the opportunity to have a 72″ bow. In general, the preferred combination if there is a choice is to take a longer riser and shorter limbs, as this combination has lower moving mass and thus is faster.
Riser
This is the ‘handle’ of the bow. It can be made of wood, aluminium, or carbon fibre. The most important features are that the grip is one that you find
Risers can be extremely light, such as the
Limbs
While the riser is really just something to hold that keeps the limbs apart and lets you add things like sights, the limbs do the real work of the bow. On longbows and American flatbows these form a gentle curve, but on recurve bows they start curving towards the archer, but then bend the other way, with the tips pointing towards the target (although, on a promotional shot for The Hunger Games somebody had put the limbs on back to front!).
There are three basic types of limb fittings (ie how the limb attaches to the riser): bolt-down, International Limb Fitting, and Hoyt Formula.
Bolt-down. For the most part, bolt-down limbs are used on cheaper beginner’s bows (but also on some more traditional hunting bows used in the States). The fitting is not entirely standardised, so you will either buy riser and limbs from the same manufacturer, or check with the dealer that they are compatible. The problem with bolt-down limbs is that you can’t adjust them, neither for alignment, nor for fine adjusting the draw weight to tune your arrows. They do make it inexpensive to get started, eg the Core Silhouette is currently £34.49 for the riser and £27.90 for the limbs. If budget is a consideration, or you are buying for a youngster and not sure how long they will keep up archery before picking a new fad (we’ve all been there), then this makes a lot of sense.
International Limb Fitting. The ILF was originally developed by Earl Hoyt (founder of the Hoyt archery company) back in the ’70s, and many other manufacturers adopted it as a standard. This is by far the most popular system, since there is a wide range of risers and limbs from different manufacturers and price points, which you can mix-and-match as desired. The limbs can be wood/fibreglass, wood/carbonfibre, or carbonfibre/foam. They range in price from about £50 for Core Prelude up to over £600 for the top of the range Win&Win, MK, and Uukha limbs, or over £700 for custom-made Border super-recurve limbs (made by a top manufacturer here in Scotland).
Unless you are on a tight budget or buying for youngsters, we would normally recommend starting with ILF. The minimum weight available is around 18lb, or 28lb for high quality limbs.
Hoyt Formula. In the past decade Hoyt came up with a redesign, called the Formula system. This is similar to (but incompatible with) the ILS that they also invented some decades ago. The primary difference is that the riser supports the limb further from the joint, which is supposed to improve stability of the shot and make it smoother. It also works very well, but the range is more limited than with ILS, especially at the lower price range and lower bow weight end. Prices seem to start at about £230, up to £700. It is a good system, but choice is limited and no entry-level prices or poundage.
Draw weight. Some years ago, men started at 26-30lb and women at 22-26lb, but nowadays this is considered too powerful to start. The problem is not that beginners cannot draw such bows, they certainly can, but that as a beginner the archer needs to concentrate on developing good form, and this is easier to do if you are not struggling with the weight.
Age Range | Max Weight at start of course | Max Weight at end of course |
---|---|---|
> 12 | 14lbs | 16lbs |
13-14 | 16lbs | 18lbs |
15-16 | 18lbs | 22lbs |
17-18 | 20lbs | 24lbs |
19+ | 20lbs | 24lbs |
It is normal for people to move up in draw weight several times in the first couple of years. For this reason, we recommend people not spend too much money on a first (or second) pair of limbs. It is also normal to put these early limbs on eBay when people move up, so getting them second hand until you are up to your final (or near final) competition weight is a good idea. The club decided that if equipment was available we would hire club bows and other equipment (everything needed) to people completing beginner’s courses at a cost of £15 per month. This spread the cost (you don’t have to buy all your equipment at the same time as paying AGB + SAA fees, and just after paying for a beginner’s course), and also allows strength to be built up so that the first pair of limbs can be heavier than otherwise.
It is normal for men to have a final draw weight of 38-46lbs, and women 28-34lbs. If possible, shoot a few ends with a borrowed bow at the weight you are planning to move to. When you move up, it is normal for it to feel heavy at first, but you would normally adapt to it within a couple of weeks; at first take breaks and don’t shoot every end that is possible in an evening. There should be no shaking or strain at the chosen draw weight, although it can take a bit of time to work up the stamina for longer rounds.
For shooting indoors there is not so much to be gained from going up in weight beyond 26-30lbs, apart from being able to use thicker arrows (hence more line-cutters), but outdoors there are real advantages to having a heavier bow:
- The lower trajectory means that
- For freestyle archers the sight pin is not so low as to interfere with the arrow
- For barebow archers, you are not aiming at some point in the sky
- Field archers are less likely to have tree branches interfere with the arrow path
2) The faster arrow flight means less time for wind to push the arrow off course.